Derby fuel tank removal

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    BENTLEY DRIVERS CLUB FORUM Index -> Derby Cars : 3.5L & 4.25L, MKV
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Christopher Hadfield



Joined: 28 Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Location: Surrey, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

Can anyone tell me how to remove my petrol tank from the car. All securing bolts have been removed (with some difficulty after 83 years) but there seems no large enough gap to actually take out the tank. Do I need to remove one of the springs?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Christopher Carnley



Joined: 16 Nov 2007
Posts: 2746
Location: Yorkshire, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

It may be best to lift the frame onto axle stands, undo both rear shackles and lower the axle a little without straining the damper links.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Christopher Hadfield



Joined: 28 Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Location: Surrey, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

Thank you
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Christopher Hadfield



Joined: 28 Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Location: Surrey, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

It is out, a bit of work needed

Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Iain Warner



Joined: 03 Apr 1992
Posts: 148
Location: Norfolk, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

Well done. Looks like its sitting on the drawing room carpet!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Christopher Hadfield



Joined: 28 Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Location: Surrey, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

Does anyone have any experience of POR15 or similar to seal a tank. Mine weeps around two of the rivets fixing the bulwarks or would it be sufficient to solder on the outside?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Christopher Carnley



Joined: 16 Nov 2007
Posts: 2746
Location: Yorkshire, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

Soldering is very dangerous, and tank sealants are OK provide that the interior is clean.

My suggestion would be to find one of the franchised "Tank Renu" firms often associated with radiator repairers, and have it taken apart and rebuilt, the charges are really economical.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Paul Spencer



Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Posts: 1088
Location: Oxfordshire, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

This is from my recent experience with the tank on my A.C. Sociable. The first question is "has it been sealed before?" Mine had, so I bought a three stage sealer kit. The first should remove old sealer, the second cleans the tank and the third is the new ethanol-proof sealer. I failed at the first stage. This is obviously not guaranteed as the manufacturer doesn't know what the old sealer is. Their chemical is supposed to work with most of them, but not whatever was in mine. So I took it to MTS Classic motorcycles, which specialises in tank refurb for bikes. It took them several weeks to get the old sealer out, but then they completed the process. When I got it back, I found it still leaked, so it went back again. They were very helpful at this stage. They have now taken it to where I am having my car serviced, so I will see it when I get the car back in a couple of days.

I definitely wouldn't apply heat. People say you can run exhaust gases through the tank to clear the petrol fumes, but I wouldn't trust it - I had liquid fuel stuck under a blister in the old lining. I did a temporary repair on the outside with JB Weld, and that got me through VSCC scrutineering.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Robert Craven



Joined: 09 Apr 2004
Posts: 554
Location: Swansea, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

As Christopher and Paul have said it may be best to find a commercial repairer near you. They often seem to be radiator repair people and perhaps a Google search will find you a local one.
I know it's not anywhere near you but years ago I found an outfit near me [Ricketts of Swansea] who did a good job of replacing the entire bottom of a steel petrol tank. Their workshop didn't blow up so presumably they used the correct techniques. It wasn't expensive compared to the cost of a new tank.


Last edited by Robert Craven on Tue Nov 13, 2018 11:00 am; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
John Murch



Joined: 05 Jun 1976
Posts: 1567
Location: London, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

Paul Rogers did some (or perhaps arranged for others to do) modifications on a tank a few years ago. May be closer to you.
http://paulrogersengineering.co.uk
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Christopher Carnley



Joined: 16 Nov 2007
Posts: 2746
Location: Yorkshire, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

Anglia Radiators in Cambridge.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Stephen Blakey



Joined: 02 Feb 1995
Posts: 1337
Location: Derbyshire, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

Years ago, I successfully brazed some nuts onto a motorcycle fuel tank in order to remove a dent with a slide hammer. I steamed it out with a wallpaper steamer. This removed all the residue from the inside and left the steel very bare. I do remember the inside went quite rusty after that.
If the tank's been sealed with goo then it's probably best to leave it to the experts.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Christopher Hadfield



Joined: 28 Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Location: Surrey, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

Thanks for all your replies. I did have the bottom cut out and new section welded in and looked very nice. After my second journey one of the rivets started to pull through leaving me with the same problem. I repaired it with a thin plate and some JB weld which has held fast for the last 300 miles. Could have done that in the first place and saved money for other much needed work! At least the metal is thicker than it used to be.
_________________
Christopher Hadfield
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Christopher Hadfield



Joined: 28 Feb 2012
Posts: 15
Location: Surrey, United Kingdom

Reply with quote

Thanks for all your replies. I did have the bottom cut out and new section welded in and looked very nice. After my second journey one of the rivets started to pull through leaving me with the same problem. I repaired it with a thin plate and some JB weld which has held fast for the last 300 miles. Could have done that in the first place and saved money for other much needed work! At least the metal is thicker than it used to be.
_________________
Christopher Hadfield
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    BENTLEY DRIVERS CLUB FORUM Index -> Derby Cars : 3.5L & 4.25L, MKV All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group