Which spares for a long trip?

 
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woodtom



Joined: 18 Oct 2021
Posts: 5
Location: Umbria, Italy

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Hi all, I've been lurking here for a while but now the proud new owner of a 3/4.5 which I'm planning to drive down to Italy for the summer. The car is newly rebuilt but as it will be out of the country for a while and doing a few thousand miles this summer I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on which spares I should be packing?

Best

Tom
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John Murch



Joined: 05 Jun 1976
Posts: 1567
Location: London, United Kingdom

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My no.1 would be a spare magneto. (Complete with dog set up to just slot in) I know that it may be the wrong one, but the car will run ok on one……….
Spare inner tube.
Some electrical wire. Useful for electrics or for lashing up the exhaust system if something drops off!
Spare bulbs, spare brake light switch (Odd I know, but small and difficult to source in darkest europe).
Good luck and have and enjoyable trip.
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Nicholas Simons



Joined: 01 Aug 2019
Posts: 230
Location: Derbyshire, United Kingdom

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Don't forget the mandatory safety equipment required by each country you drive through. Things such as a high visibility vest and warning triangle spring to mind. I think that in France the driver must put on his hi-vis before he gets out of the car in an emergency, so it needs to be kept within arm's reach.
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woodtom



Joined: 18 Oct 2021
Posts: 5
Location: Umbria, Italy

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Many thanks gents, I will stock up
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Ewan Gallie



Joined: 29 Oct 1997
Posts: 184
Location: Italy

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Nicholas Simons wrote:
Don't forget the mandatory safety equipment required by each country you drive through. Things such as a high visibility vest and warning triangle spring to mind. I think that in France the driver must put on his hi-vis before he gets out of the car in an emergency, so it needs to be kept within arm's reach.


Same in Italy!
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Stephen Blakey



Joined: 02 Feb 1995
Posts: 1337
Location: Derbyshire, United Kingdom

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A couple of returns from France by recovery truck spring to mind.

One was the former club chairman whose 3L started making expensive noises in the engine department, which were diagnosed by experts as internal mechanical maladies. A safety-first approach lead to the recovery of the car, however the eventual diagnosis was that the exhaust manifold/block joint had sprung a leak. That's not the first time that condition has produced a noise akin to engine knocking.

I have already mentioned the other on here. That was when a member accidentally put E10 in her special. The E10 mobilised all the rubbish which had been sitting harmlessly in the bottom of her tank for a few decades, and that blocked things up causing a failure to proceed. I'm guessing your tank has been cleaned.

We had the starter motor pack-up on a trip to Scotland by 8L. For the rest of the trip we relied on using the starting handle (yes really) and parking on hills. Have you tried your starting handle skills? Having said that, with a vintage Bentley it's very easy to recruit pushers.

From a risk-assessment approach, your biggest risk factor is the fact that the car has been recently rebuilt. I suggest you take plenty of spanners, a selection of nuts and bolts and some Loctite. Keep a close lookout for things coming undone.

I assume you have already thought of taking a multi-meter and some spare fuse wire?

Last time I went Bentleying in France, we were required to carry breathalyzers, as well as the items mentioned above. I imagine that's still the case.

Do let us know how you get on.
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John Murch



Joined: 05 Jun 1976
Posts: 1567
Location: London, United Kingdom

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Stephen’s response reminds me that it can be quite difficult to tighten the nuts holding on the exhaust manifold. This requires a fairly thin spanner suitably bent such that you can actually access the nuts. The manifold and the joint between the manifold and down pipe can have a tendency to come loose as the gaskets settle.
I’ll post a couple of photos to show spanner and where it has to go,


Last edited by John Murch on Wed Apr 27, 2022 6:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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John Murch



Joined: 05 Jun 1976
Posts: 1567
Location: London, United Kingdom

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woodtom



Joined: 18 Oct 2021
Posts: 5
Location: Umbria, Italy

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Stephen, John thanks very much for these additional points.

I shall have a go at spanner bending so I've got something ready to go for the exhaust manifold.

I've been testing running the car on one mag at a time and both seem strong but I'm probably going to pick up another two to be on the safe side. I suspect they will always have a resale value.

On nuts and bolts I've now done a few hundred miles of running-in in the UK and am starting to discover the usual culprits that come loose (throttle linkage adjuster seems to be the most common). I'm guessing nylocs are not the done thing (or simply not available in whitworth thread) so loctite is the answer?

Multimeter, fuses, wire etc packed and Tim Cresswell is building up a spares pack of more specific bits for me.

Does anyone have any tips on a reasonably compact jack to carry? I've never been a fan of scissor jack safety so maybe bottle is the answer? Would rather not carry a trolley...

Tom
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Stephen Blakey



Joined: 02 Feb 1995
Posts: 1337
Location: Derbyshire, United Kingdom

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I like those telescopic screw jacks such as were fitted to the MKVI. I have an ancient one of a different type.

For touring, it has a couple of benefits compared with a similar sized bottle jack;

There are fewer ways in which it can go wrong e.g. it can't leak and there are no seals to fail.

Secondly, it stays at the same height when in use, which is reassuring.

On the minus side, it takes longer to raise the car than a hydraulic jack, so I would go for a hydraulic jack and axle stand at home.

There's a website devoted to old car jacks. Who knew?

http://www.classic-british-car-jacks.uk/Dunlop_Jacks.htm

The MKVI had a Dunlop No41 but some of the others may be more suitable for you and cheaper.

There's a guide to the bewildering variety of Loctite thread lockers here;

http://wdarc.org/Loctite%20Guide.pdf
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Robert Craven



Joined: 09 Apr 2004
Posts: 554
Location: Swansea, United Kingdom

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Tom, you can get nyloc BSW and BSF nuts if you want them. e.g. from GWR Fasteners.
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woodtom



Joined: 18 Oct 2021
Posts: 5
Location: Umbria, Italy

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Thanks Stephen, excellent bedtime reading on that jack site! I'd never seen a telescopic screw jack but looks like a good idea.

Will also be stocking up on nuts, thanks Robert!

What an excellent forum, hope I can repay the help once I know what I'm doing!

Tom
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woodtom



Joined: 18 Oct 2021
Posts: 5
Location: Umbria, Italy

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Stephen Blakey



Joined: 02 Feb 1995
Posts: 1337
Location: Derbyshire, United Kingdom

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Hi Tom,

Lovely picture. Perhaps a few more words next time? I guess you're busy.

Enjoy the trip!

Stephen

P.S. Thank you for demonstrating the "post subject" option. I've been posting on here since the late twentieth century and had never noticed that.
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Jay Miller



Joined: 14 Oct 2019
Posts: 3
Location: Rhode Island 02837, USA

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Tom, as you're in process of developing a touring kit, parts and tools, would you, please, share what you finally assemble? I'm about to take on the same task-although I'm in the U.S.

How is everyone determining what size threads are used in various applications (BSW v. BSF)?

What modern tools, for actual use apart from any vintage tools used for shows, are you assembling and from where, please?

Thank you and cheers,

Jay
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John Murch



Joined: 05 Jun 1976
Posts: 1567
Location: London, United Kingdom

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Jay, not really an answer to your question, but did you see this thread?
https://www.bdcl.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4338&highlight=tool+kit
As to where to buy, I have found eBay a useful source for old tools.
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